Grow Nasturtiums in Pots: Beautiful and Edible Blooms

Why Grow Nasturtiums in Pots?

Nasturtiums are a perfect choice for gardeners with limited space or even a balcony. Their vibrant orange, red, and yellow blooms add instant beauty, while their peppery leaves and flowers offer a delicious, edible touch to salads and garnishes. You’ll find their trailing, bushy growth ideal for pots, hanging baskets, or small containers. Plus, they’re tough, quick to grow, and surprisingly low-maintenance. You can do this—even if your garden is just a sunny corner or a windowsill. Follow these clear, practical steps and you’ll soon enjoy stunning nasturtiums that feed both the eyes and the palate.

Getting Ready — What You’ll Need

Before planting, gather your essentials carefully. Here’s what you’ll need:

• Container: At least 30 cm (12 in) deep with drainage holes; a pot of 20–30 cm (8–12 in) diameter suits bushy types, while trailing types may prefer a hanging basket or a wider pot.
• Soil: Well-draining, light soil mix: 70% loam, 20% mature compost, 10% coarse sand or perlite to ensure good airflow and moisture balance.
• Seeds: Choose varieties like ‘Alaska’ (compact), ‘Empress of India’ (trailing), or ‘Jewel Mix’ (multi-colored).
• Fertilizer: A balanced, low-nitrogen fertilizer, such as a 5-10-10 NPK ratio or organic alternatives like liquid seaweed every 3–4 weeks.
• Watering can or drip system: To keep watering even and gentle.
• Sunlight: Nasturtiums need plenty of it—aim for 6–8 hours daily; choose the sunniest spot available.
• Garden tools: A small hand trowel, gloves (optional, though they’re easy on hands), and pruning scissors for tidying blooms.
• Optional: Clay pots are an excellent choice if your area experiences intense heat because they keep roots cooler and soil moisture more stable.

Step-by-Step — How to Grow Nasturtiums in Pots

1. Preparing Your Pot

Start by cleaning your pot thoroughly to avoid diseases. Remove any old soil and rinse with water.

Place a drainage layer at the bottom using coarse gravel or broken pottery shards about 3–4 cm (1–1.5 in) deep. This ensures excess water drains freely, preventing root rot. Fill your pot with the prepared soil mix—remember, it should be light and airy. Avoid packing the soil too hard; instead, gently tap it down so it’s firm but not compacted. The texture should feel like a sponge wrung out—moist but not soggy.

One mistake to avoid: planting directly into heavy, poorly drained soil or containers without holes. Nasturtiums hate “wet feet,” and this leads to yellow leaves and decayed roots.

2. Sowing or Planting

Nasturtium seeds are large, making them easy to sow directly in pots. Before planting, soak seeds overnight in lukewarm water to speed germination and soften the seed coat—this step isn’t mandatory but helps.

Sow seeds at a depth of 1–2 cm (0.5–1 in), with spacing of about 5–10 cm (2–4 in) apart if sowing multiple in one pot. Ideal soil temperature for germination is between 15–20°C (59–68°F). You’ll see sprouts within 7–14 days, feeling tender and fresh.

Pro tip: Cover your pot with light plastic or a glass cloche for the first week to retain moisture and warmth, but remove it once sprouts appear to avoid fungal issues.

3. Watering and Sunlight

Water your nasturtiums deeply after sowing, enough for moisture to reach the root zone—usually a good soak that moistens soil up to 15 cm (6 in) deep. During growth, aim for watering about 2–3 times per week in warm weather or when the top 2 cm (0.8 in) of soil feels dry to the touch.

In hot, dry, or windy areas, group your pots close together to maintain humidity and shield tender leaves. Applying a thin mulch of straw or shredded leaves on top of the soil helps keep moisture in.

Nasturtiums thrive in full sun, so place your pots where they receive at least 6–8 hours of sunlight daily. If you’re in a cloudy area, ensure pots face the brightest direction, or supplement with light-reflective surroundings like white walls.

4. Feeding and Maintenance

Feed with a gentle fertilizer every 3–4 weeks. Use a formula low in nitrogen and richer in phosphorus and potassium (for example, 5-10-10 NPK). Overfeeding with nitrogen can produce lush leaves but few flowers and edible blooms.

Thin seedlings if overcrowded by snipping the weakest stems to improve airflow and nutrient access. Prune older or leggy growth to encourage fresh blooms and tidy appearance.

Check soil aeration regularly by gently stirring the surface or using a finger to feel if compacted layers are forming. Nasturtiums prefer fluffy soil for healthy roots.

“The secret is not more work — it’s regular care and observation,” I’ve learned over years of growing nasturtiums. Small adjustments, like moving pots to sunnier spots or adjusting watering, make a big difference.

5. Troubleshooting While They Grow

Here’s what to watch for and fix quickly:

• Yellow leaves: Usually a sign of overwatering or low phosphorus. Check drainage; if soil is soggy, water less and improve drainage. Add compost or a phosphorus-rich fertilizer.
• Stunted growth: Often from too little sunlight. Move pots to a brighter spot.
• Pests like aphids: Spray with a mild soapy water solution or introduce natural predators like ladybugs.
• Fungal leaf spots: Reduce humidity and increase air circulation.
• Poor germination: Soil too deep or dry? Make sure seeds are only 1–2 cm deep and soil consistently moist (not wet).

6. Harvesting

Nasturtium blooms are ready for harvest when they are fully open, vibrant in color, and feel firm but delicate in your hands—usually 70–90 days after sowing. Leaves can be picked once they reach 5–8 cm (2–3 in) in diameter.

For the best flavor, reduce watering during the last week before harvesting—this concentrates flavors in both leaves and flowers. The leaves have a peppery, fresh taste with a subtle bite.

When harvesting flowers, pinch the flower stem at the base rather than pulling, to avoid damaging the plant. Leaves can be snipped with scissors.

Store fresh nasturtium flowers and leaves in an airtight container at 4–7°C (39–45°F) for up to 2 weeks. For longer preservation, consider drying leaves for tea or freezing the petals for use in cold dishes.

Extra Tips for Perfect Results

• Companion plants: Nasturtiums pair beautifully with tomatoes, cucumbers, radishes, and beans—they attract aphids away from these crops while also improving soil health.
• Rotate your pots each season to prevent soil fatigue and pest build-up.
• Mulch with straw or leaves to retain humidity and keep roots cool during hot spells.
• Use rainwater if possible; tap water often contains chlorine and salts that can harden soil and affect plant health.
• In windy areas, cluster pots close to create a microclimate that protects foliage and maintains soil moisture.
• During peak heat around midday, provide a thin fabric shade to reduce leaf scorch and water loss.

Common Mistakes and How to Fix Them

• Overwatering: Symptoms include soft, rotting roots and yellow leaves—allow the top 2 cm (0.8 in) of soil to dry before watering again.
• Weak growth: Likely due to insufficient sunlight—relocate pots to a sunnier area.
• Yellow leaves: Often caused by too much nitrogen fertilizer—switch to one with higher phosphorus content, like a 5-10-10 NPK formula.
• Poor germination: Seeds planted too deep; keep sowing depth between 0.5–1 cm (0.2–0.4 in) for best results.
• Misshapen roots: Caused by compacted soil—always incorporate coarse sand or perlite to enhance drainage and air circulation.

Harvest and Storage

Harvest nasturtium flowers by gently pinching or snipping at the base of the stem, avoiding tearing leaves or damaging the plant’s growing tips. Leaves should be picked carefully—select healthy, vibrant green foliage.

Store your harvest in a cool, dark location at about 4–7°C (39–45°F). Nasturtium leaves and flowers will keep fresh for up to 2 weeks if stored properly. For long-term preservation, freezing is effective—spread flowers on a tray to freeze individually, then transfer to airtight bags. Leaves dry nicely for herbal teas, offering a peppery note.

To save seeds, allow flowers to mature fully and brown on the plant. Collect the large, kidney-shaped seeds, dry them thoroughly, and store in a cool, dry place until the next planting season.

What Success Looks Like

When you see your nasturtiums proudly blooming in vibrant reds, oranges, and yellows, cascading over the pot edges or standing bright and compact, you’ll feel a real sense of accomplishment. Pulling that first handful of firm, fragrant leaves or clipping brightly colored flowers—light, slightly fuzzy, and crisp—is proof that your care paid off. Expect a yield of roughly 1–2 kg (2–4 lb) of fresh leaves and flowers per 30 cm (12 in) pot throughout the growing season.

Success isn’t just the harvest—it’s the connection you build with your plants through daily observation and gentle tending. Nasturtiums reward patience and a little curiosity. Each bloom is a small celebration of nature’s color and flavor lighting up your space.

Mini Recap — Your Success Checklist

• Pot depth: Minimum 30 cm (12 in).
• Soil mix: 70% loam, 20% compost, 10% sand.
• Watering: 2–3 times per week, adjust by soil moisture.
• Sunlight: At least 6–8 hours daily.
• Fertilizer: Every 3–4 weeks, low nitrogen.
• Harvest: 70–90 days after sowing.

Closing Reflection

Remember, growing nasturtiums in pots isn’t about perfection but about consistent care and observation. Every time you water, prune, or simply look at your plants, you’re learning and adapting. “Every plant you grow teaches you something new. Don’t rush it—watch, adjust, and enjoy. That’s what makes you a gardener.” Whether you harvest handfuls of peppery leaves or just enjoy the splash of color on your balcony, you’re creating a space that celebrates growth, patience, and simple beauty.